For the love of Vietnamese Iced Coffee – Moments in Vietnam
If you want to go directly to the Vietnamese Iced Coffee Recipe, click here. Our story here was from our 2008 trip to see family in Hanoi and Đà Nang.
Vietnamese Coffee
It was another warm, humid summer night in Đà Nang, and I was cruising on the back of a scooter behind Quang, one of Diane’s cousins. He’s the cousin I consider the cool, savvy intellectual. He turned his head and asked, “So, do you like beer?” I don’t think there was a moment the whole time we were in Việt-nam when a beer didn’t sound good, but I knew Quang was asking more than a simple question. It had the depth of the lyrics Louis Armstrong so beautifully sang…”I see friends shaking hands, sayin’ ‘How do you do.” They really sayin’, “I love you.'”
I answered, “I like coffee.” He turned his head a little more to catch my eye, smiled, and replied, “Me too.”
Enjoying Cà Phê Sữa Đá & Chinese checkers (Cờ tướng) in Đà Nang, Việt-Nam
Iced or Hot Coffee in Viet-Nam?
One of my biggest concerns going to Việt-nam was whether or not to brave the street ice and have a cà phê sữa đá (Việtnamese iced coffee.) The first few days in Hanọi, it was only cà phê sữa nóng (Việtnamese hot coffee) we dared drink. That was hardly a sacrifice since they are one of our preferred morning coffees, outside of a perfectly, velvety cappuccino. But for afternoons, all I could do was to gaze longingly at the refreshing Vietnamese iced coffees, and weigh the odds of proper digestion. By day three, I could wait no longer. By now we had braved cooked foods straight off of the street, ate a couple small bowls of phở out of a locals-only place, and had consumed iced water at the hotel. With no signs of ill effects, we were feeling confident.
Việt-Nam nights come alive
We hit the streets that night, prowling for answers to our cravings. Diane had been salivating over the street corn vendors goods every time we saw her. We sought her out and ordered up some sauteed corn with chili and dried shrimp. It felt like a drug transaction as we slipped her the money while the police were prowling just across the street. We scampered away with our goods, and hunted down a non-touristy cafe to grab a table and order up “hai ly cà phê sữa đá” (2 vietnamese iced coffee!). With cravings in hand, we settled into the warm sauna of Hanọi’s night air and watched the night scene unfold before us. We looked at each other and smiled, “We’re in Việt-nam!”.
Different Types of Vietnamese Coffee:
- Cà Phê Sữa Đá (literally – Coffee Milk Ice) A base of sweetened condensed milk, over which about 2 oz of potent coffee is brewed using a individual serving size filter. The coffee itself is syrupy and strong, similar to an espresso. Add ice and enjoy. The combination of the caramel sweetness of the milk, the potent brew of the coffee, and the cool refreshing addition of the ice is heavenly.
- Cà Phê Sữa Nóng (Coffee Milk Hot) Same concept as above, except omit the ice and in Việtnam they often warm the whole glass in a cup of hot water. Again, the taste is heavenly, especially when enjoyed over a casual morning taken in small sips at a time.
- Cà Phê Đen (Coffee Black) Just the coffee this time, no sweetened condensed milk. Not for the weak.
- Cà Phê Đen Đá (Coffee Black Ice) I think you can figure this one out.
Stir coffee & condensed milk
Cà Phê Sữa Đá- pour over ice. At many street side coffee stalls that we visited, our Cà Phê Sữa Nóng (hot Việt coffee) was served in a hot water bath.
Make Vietnamese Iced Coffee Traditional Style:
We tend to be a bit obsessive over coffee. Here’s some of our favorites for traditional Vietnamese Iced Coffee:
Previous Viet-Nam posts you might enjoy reading and viewing:
Heading to Viet-Nam & Twitters
LOVE Vietnamese Iced Coffee. Kind of spoiled out here in San Gabriel Valley where it is very accessible (I say this as I’m drinking one right now). Nice recipe too! If you’re in for a really quick fix, we’ve found Trader Joe’s instant coffee (both regular and decaf) with condensed milk to have a very very close taste to our beloved Cafe Sua Dua. Just throwing that out there. Thanks!
Hello,
Wonderful post and story regarding cafe sua da! I grew up fascinated by coffee but with parents that were sensitive to caffeine I never grew up around it. Even though it was a Vietnamese household! Anyways, I’ve always been searching for the perfect recipe and technique to make the thick coffee that coats the back of your throat with caffeine goodness – that of which I have found only in the back alleys of Saigon.
In this post it mentions both of your notes –
http://www.latimes.com/features/printedition/food/la-fo-banhmirec5b-2008nov05,0,2461850.story
My question is what type of glass or set is the cafe sua da in?
(http://latimes.image2.trb.com/lanews/media/photo/2008-11/43189663.jpg)
I have been searching far and wide for a similar piece. Was this shot taken in a restaurant perhaps? Is the piece available for purchase?
Thank you!
Patrick Nguyen
I just found your site via Blazing Hot Wok. Love the photos of Vietnam. I know I’ll be checking in with you often!
I use Cafe Du Monde Coffee for my ca phe sua da. So addictive!
Addicting indeed! My co-author and I pretty much wrote our first book in a banquet at our favorite Vietnamese restaurant. We were fueled on by the coffee and the Pho. We are back there again for the second book.
I have all of the equipment to make my own, but it never tastes as good. With your tutorial I’ll have my beloved drink at home!
I just had my first Vietnamese coffee a few weeks ago – it was different than I expected but SO good! In fact, it was so good that I didn’t mind the $3.95 I was charged!! Thanks for your great posts about Vietnam – I’ve read and reread them – the mister is heading there soon, I thought I’d be going with him but he’s going solo – but NEXT time I’m going – I don’t care WHAT he says!
Oh, that looks amazing and I don’t even drink coffee! Dare I show this to Jeremy? I have to say though, the coffee you (Todd) made for Jeremy was out of this world, according to the guy. He loved it. This post was particularly delightful – the imagery… You two are so cute. xxoo
canarygirl – You might be able to find them online. They are usually sold as “Vietnamese Coffee Filter.” I’ve seen them on Amazon, but they were a bit overpriced. If you really want one, email us & we can pick one up for you. Don’t worry about not having chicory coffee either. You can still make a great one with your favorite full-bodied coffee. We use an Ethiopian Yirgacheffe and love it.
Julie – It was so fun how the nights came alive in Vietnam. It seems like everyone came out to walk, eat, cruise on the scooters, etc.. One of our favorite times of day while we were there.
Lori Lynn – In the afternoons we were frequently double fisting. Ca phe in one hand, beer in the other!
sweetbird – Hope he loves them as much as we do. Tasty, tasty, tasty.
These look outstanding. My husbands love of all things coffee means I’ll definitely be trying these out.
Oh that layering is so neat.
I love drinking coffee like the locals while traveling. It helps me immerse in the culture first thing in the morning. By the afternoon, I ‘d be enjoying the beer however. haha
I love that picture of the night scene in Hanoi — so atmospheric, as is your description of the “warm sauna of Hanoi’s night air.”
Cà Phê Sữa Đá is my favorite way to drink coffee. It’s wonderful stuff.
Vietnamese coffee is my favorite! It kicks the ass of any expresso I have ever met. I have been searching high and low for the brewer thingie, and cannot for the life of me find one. 🙁 Besides, I don’t think we have chicory coffee here, either. Have one for me, ok? 🙂
Dani – Good things spread far and wide. Hard to imagine a day without a tasty ca phe.
Kitt – Beer can also be the perfect beverage at times. It just isn’t a daily requirement 😉
sharon – Isn’t it great how food and beverages are so closely linked to our memories and emotions.
Marc @ NoRecipes – We’ve converted many a “non-coffee drinker” with these nummy brews. That’s part of why we always feel obligated in warning about their addicting potential.
noobcook – Be careful. You may be forever hooked!
Susan at Sticky,Gooey,Creamy,Chewy – We actually had both. What can we say… It was muggy.
chefectomy – Despite all of the warnings, I don’t think we could have resisted even if we really wanted to. That’s why we got prescription intestinal meds, just in case. We went to Vietnam to eat & drink!
Christie@Fig&Cherry – Just wait until you try it! Soooo good. Call us the ca phe pimps.
maybelles mom – Nearly every Vietnamese in the community here warned us not too. Several of the girls at the nail shop have gotten sick going back. I’m glad we were too bullheaded to listen to them. It wouldn’t have been a complete trip without ca phe sua da. We had them everyday, once we crossed the “no ice” warnings.
RecipeGirl – It’s worth being done in by! 😉
mikky – Three words why, “Tasty, tasty, tasty!”
Rita – We puffed out so much on that trip. Our toes were starting to look like sausages!
evil chef mom – A little won’t hurt her. Go on. Oops, are we being bad influences again. Corrupting the youth. At the internet cafes in Vietnam, we would see 8-10 year olds smoking and drinking coffee at 8 in the morning. Crazy. Even that was over the top for us.
Passionate Eater – Another joy to the palate that shouldn’t be forgotten. Regular doses recommended!
Chez Us – Dust ’em off and fill them up. Ca phe time!
Helene – Hopefully our sharing will be inspirations for others to explore as well. Thanks for the compliments.
Tony – we are always up for another trip. We just have to save up. Damn fuel costs keep bumping up the airfares.
Simply…Gluten-Free – We’ll find a way to sneak you. We’d love to have you as our travel buddy.
Alex – I think they’ve developed these drinks to contend with all of their spicy chilies. Need something to put out the flames.
alexandra’s kitchen – At home we were getting lazy about making them, and were just using espresso. But after coming home from Vietnam, we savor that slow drip and relaxed time of brewing it in the filters. Makes you take the time to “stop and smell the coffee, I mean roses”
I haven’t had one of these in ages. my favorite part about drinking Vietnamese coffee is pouring it through that gadget/filter that sits on top of the cups. I love hearing about all of your adventures.
Great post. I had something similar whilst in Thailand this summer. Wonderful blog
For me coffee always trumps beer. I love reading these posts! They are fabulous and I can barely wait for my next fix. Next time you go I am sneaking onto the plane with you – 🙂
I’m going to need some of that coffee in the morning. It’s 2:30am and I still have so much left to do before going to bed…. better yet, I need a vacation… are you guys up for another trip to Viet-Nam?? 🙂